A Travellerspoint blog

April 2014

Exploring Bangkok

sunny
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On Saturday Ben and I decided to visit the weekend market at Chatuchak park, about an hour's bus away. The market was so vast, with most parts inside purpose built buildings. There were a range of shops mostly selling really cool clothes, homeware, accessories as well as food outlets and souvenir type shops. It was a really great market that made me wish I had endless space in my bag!
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The neighbouring parks were beautiful too. A lot of people on bikes or just chilling out in the heat. We were thinking of getting bikes but I think the walk to the bike rental place tired us out to much! Along the way we saw a butterfly pavilion and a lady with a pretty baby squirrel which was so cute!
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After a quick relax by (and in) the pool at Ben's apartment, we ate at a restaurant on Rang Nam rd. The food was incredible, I think my favourites have been chicken with cashew nuts, son tam (papaya) salad and sour pork. The green curry we had was so different to those in the UK, I think the Thai basil has a strong aniseed-like taste.
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There was an alcohol ban across bangkok this night too, but rules are meant to be broken right?! So we headed over to khao San rd (the backpacker district) where we were served drinks in paper cups! Since the usual way to drink in Thailand is to purchase a bottle, our half bottle of sangsom rum didn't look too appetising in a paper cup, but it still went down easily enough!!
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The next day (Sunday) I took quite easy. I got some bad blisters on my feet from walking a lot, and started with a little heat exhaustion. Ben and I visited the mall and I spent the evening with Wilma, a girl I met from my dorm. We had pad Thai and drinks at a sky jazz bar.
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On Monday, Dan flew out to join us on a last minute holiday during his half term. Dan, Ben, Wilma and I took a local boat over to the golden mount, a giant golden stupa up 200 steps. The views from the top were spectacular, and along the route up there were bells and gongs which you were allowed to play!
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Selfie on the boat!
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The stupa wouldn't fit on my camera screen, so I didn't try!
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We spent the rest of the afternoon in Ben's pool, playing and messing around before eating at a local restaurant. The evening ended (like many others with Ben and Dan) in a pool hall! Where we fought for the title of "UMPSC bangkok open"! Ben won.... as usual!
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Tuesday was a lazy day by the pool, and the 3 of us held a private diving competition (most of which is filmed!) and played a lot. We ate at a Japanese restaurant and had some local drinks, but retired early so we could get up at 6am to travel to Kanchanaburi the following day.

Posted by Libbytes 06:06 Archived in Thailand Tagged bangkok chatuchak golden_mount rang_nam_road Comments (2)

Kanchanaburi and Erawan falls

sunny 35 °C
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After waking at 6am, we got a taxi across town to Bangkok Thonburi train station. There was a huge food market here as well as a few food vendors and after a noodle soup breakfast we boarded a train to Kanchanaburi.
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Once there a minivan and bus took us to Erawan national park, where we planned to go swimming in the waterfalls. We only took small over night bags, so we could go straight there.
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The falls here are in several tiers, the first few tiers tended to be great for children and we saw a small group of young monks playing in the pools.
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The first pool we swam in was tier 4, and had lots of very large nibbley fish in it! As well as large moss covered rocks you could climb up and slide down. We spent a few hours playing here, but the photos are poor as I didn't want to get my camera wet!
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The second tier we went to was tier 6, which was completely deserted... this was so beautiful. Swimming through jungle, with shafts of light coming through the trees, butterflies flying in lines over the surface and Dan doing an impression of Peter Andre in the waterfall - so peaceful and serene!! Lol
We stayed here until the park closed and we were ushered out - long after the last bus left...
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Back at the entrance we asked about any by places to stay inside the national park, but they were all full! Luckily some body saw we were looking and recommended a lady just down the road, she said "if you don't mind what it looks like..." We had no idea what was in store for us!!
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The walk down to who knows where...
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A rickety little bridge...
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The most terrifying walk across a rusty metal gangway!
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The "bathroom"
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The bedroom

....
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The views.... we were the only people in sight.

However, that didn't mean we were alone, as the raft house was home to a dozen spiders, 10 or so geckos, a few (but not too many) mossies, and about a million Mayflies, who fortunately all died at about 8pm.

We huddled around a mossy candle, until we decided it attracted more insects than it repelled, before going to bed fairly early for an early start the following day.

The next day we ate back up at the park entrance and headed back to the fun pool with the slides. We then relaxed in tier 5, a pool with relatively smaller fish, which I found small enough to allow to nibble my feet. Ben and I relaxed to the nibbling, whilst Dan screamed like a girl and wouldn't keep still!! Hee hee!
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At one point I must've had about 20 fish nibbling me, but when Ben went to take a photo they all swam off! We think it was the shadow.
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We reluctantly left to make the bus back into town and the journey back to Bangkok, barely making the bus we had to run to it in 35° heat!!

All of us said, we could've spent a week in the park, playing in the pools, watching nature - there are supposed to be tigers in there! This is definitely somewhere I will visit again, and despite the bugs, I would even be inclined to stay at the same accommodation! What a magical place, really.

Posted by Libbytes 18:29 Archived in Thailand Tagged waterfall kanchanaburi erawan_falls Comments (4)

Thailand's Golden Age History

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After returning to Bangkok briefly from Kanchanaburi, Dan and I then headed out to Ayutthaya; one of Thailand's ancient cities. We stayed at a place I booked from home, Baan Are Gong guesthouse. A house made purely from teak wood, styled like a boat we think, with cabin style rooms, it was beautiful. Ayutthaya is a small inland island surrounded by a river and the guesthouse was located just next to the river ferry crossing.
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That night we went across the river towards the bars area, where we ate, played lots of pool, and Dan sang with the resident band on stage!
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The following day we went off to see the main attractions of Ayutthaya; the ancient city ruins and wats. We walked across town to Wat Mathat, Wat Bophit and Wat Si Sanphet. There were also elephants you could ride as taxis, but it was expensive and very touristy.
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After a pit stop for boat noodles and roti, we headed back and Dan went out to watch the city match, I surprised him later in the evening by arriving via motorbike (which I rode side saddle (I'm turning Asian!) As I was wearing a dress! It was amazing and I think now I am slightly obsessed with getting a motorbike!)
We met a German girl named Anna at the bar, and once again Dan was asked to sing on stage with the band!

The following day we went to the southern part of town, again getting a motorbike taxi to take us. We crossed over via river ferry again (which usually costs about 5p!!) Here we saw an in use temple, a Thai Wat next door to a Chinese style temple. Locals were setting off fire crackers (so loud!) And feeding the hundreds of cat fish that resided in the river. The temple was packed, mainly with locals making their offerings to Buddha. In the Thai temple locals were buying orange monk robes to throw over the large golden Buddha, which were then collected and piled up in the back... ready to be bought again!
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We got the train back to Bangkok that night so Dan was ready to catch his flight home the next day. We ate with Ben and went to the jazz sky bar again afterwards. It's been amazing having these 2 here! Really helped me settle into travelling and now I know I have the confidence to continue by myself! I love you guys :)
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I chilled in Bangkok for a day before catching a bus to another ancient capital, Sukhothai. The bus was amazing, like an airline, I got a free meal, drinks and snacks, and even got escorted to my seat! I met up with Anna in Sukhothai and we shared a room inside the old town, right next to the ruins.

We rented bikes; the only one that was big enough for my height was a rusty gold coloured traditional Thai-style bike, unique to any of the other bikes for rent and I loved it! Even it's very squeaky brakes!
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We spent the whole day exploring the ancient ruins, and for at least 2 hours we didn't see another tourist, which was a perfect way to see the sights!large_SAM_0522.jpglarge_SAM_0520.jpglarge_90_2DA573332219AC6817574F4F65BBDF68.jpg
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We went all over the western park of the park, stopping to climb a path. It was hard work in the heat, but worth it once we reached the top!
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The park really was beautiful...
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After a shower and a nap we went back to the park as we had heard there was going to be a light show. It wasn't really much about lights, but there was a festival and some of the ruins had lights pointed at them. We gate crashed the party (as the only westerners (or western women I should say...)) and there was free food and drink (which I took full advantage of!) A talent show on a stage, and at the end everyone got up dancing and I was dragged to the front to be taught traditional Thai dancing (and to be laughed at for my efforts!!). The evening was so much fun, it just topped off a perfect day in Thailand :)
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Up next, songkran in Chiang Mai!!

Posted by Libbytes 06:54 Archived in Thailand Tagged bangkok ayutthaya sukhothai Comments (1)

Songkran and Chiang Mai

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From Sukhothai I caught a direct bus to chiang mai. Although this wasn't quite as VIP at my one from bangkok, it was still a double decker coach with comfortable seats. On the way there I began to experience what songkran is; the world's biggest water fight to celebrate the Thai (and Lao) New year. The coach was continually soaked with water from locals lining the streets in every town we drove through... especially by the children who you could tell were so excited for the festival to start - it's their Christmas basically!

It was the same once I arrived in Chiang mai too! And I got water-gunned through the window of my taxi on the way to my accommodation!!

The day before songkran I spent wandering around chiang mai old town. It's Thailand's second city but I was able to walk across the inner old town in 25 minutes. The old town lies within an ancient wall and moat. And it must have the highest density and number of temples/wats and chedis in the world! Wherever I looked there was a hidden temple or spire (chedi) behind trees or buildings, and sometimes seemingly in people's back gardens! I snuck into all the ones I could, they were all so beautiful and subtly different.
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During my walk through the town I met an old Thai lady who recommended I eat at a small Chinese restaurant, it was delicious!

That night I went to a bar called Bababobo, which which became my second home! I met several people playing pool that night and spent the next 5 days in Chiang mai hanging out in that bar with them.

So songkran started properly on Saturday 12th, basically every single person who lives near chiang mai, plus the hundreds of people who go there specifically, in the streets with buckets or water guns soaking each other! And trust me the novelty does not wear off! When people are already soaked you just have to resort to ice cold water! So the best places to enjoy songkran were the bars lining the moat. The guys I made friends with quickly became experts in taking empty water butts down to the most, filling them with brown skanky moat water then dragging them back. We took it in turns to buy huge bricks of ice for the bucket and after 5 minutes (to make sure the water was really cold) we filled our crappy plastic buckets (buckets were much more efficient than guns) and drenched people who were already soaked through... it was amazing and probably the most fun place in the world to spend the last 5 days!

As you can imagine, I didn't take any photos, add I was too afraid to damage my camera, but some of the people I met had waterproof cameras and phones.
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Songkran was amazing, but after a week of almost continual partying, I'm definitely ready for a chill and a rest!

My last 2 days in Chiang mai were more peaceful. A lot of the tourists had left and the streets were dry and I found that I really loved the city. There's greenery and ancient ruins everywhere you look, and if you keep of the main roads you get to see some real Thai life. I walked to a tiny park in the south west corner of the old town, where people were hiring woven mats to sit next to a pond. On the way back I walked past some of the most beautiful houses I've ever seen n, and such variety to; next to a Thai style teak house on stilts was a modern glass angular house! Papaya and mango trees lined the streets and everybody I walked past said hello :)
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Chiang mai is definitely somewhere I would return to, as without the tourists, the town has something of everything. I love chiang mai!

Posted by Libbytes 04:49 Archived in Thailand Tagged chiang_mai songkran Comments (1)

The only farang in Chiang Dao

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After an amazing time in Chiang mai, I decided to begin my journey into Laos and China. On my last day in Chiang mai I visited the Chinese embassy with a visa application form I had completed at home. I found the embassy easily and got my ticket for a queue position. Are an hour of waiting to be seen I was told that because I was planning on entering China via bus, my form needed to be typed up not hand written! I had seen other people get hand written visas accepted, so I wasn't sure why it was so different for bus entry. So I don't now have a visa for China... I think I will continue my travel into Laos and look at applying again in the capital, Vientiane.

So, in a slightly foul mood I left Chiang Mai by bus for Chiang Dao, a nearby village I had read about online that was supposed to be great for treks and hill tribe visits. The bus journey was incredible, and for the first time I really felt in an exotic tropical country, in the middle of nowhere. I met a guy from Belfast, Sean, on the bus, however he was going straight to tha ton.

The bus dropped me off at a random bus stop in the centre of Chiang Dao; essentially a short row of shops. There were no taxis anywhere in town as it was still the Thai national holiday so I had no way of getting to my accommodation for the night. I spoke to a shop owner next to the bus stop who spoke proficient English and she asked her boyfriend to drop me off at my accommodation in his pick up truck. We arrived at Hobby Hut Homestay but nobody was home! After calling in on the neighbours, we managed to locate a little old Thai lady who didn't speak a word of English. She cleaned up a hut for me and finally I was settled in Chiang Dao!
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The town was beautiful, set in the foothills of Chiang Dao Doi (mountain). Although I was the only westerner in the whole town! A non touristy place and out of season... every where I went the locals were so excited to see me and you could hear them whispering "farang" (foreigner). I had a few people who wanted their photo with me, based on my height, skin and eye colour. However I was made to feel very welcome wherever I went.

I made sure after tea I was home before dark to get ready for bed, but my plan was foiled by a friendly, but terrifying, visitor:
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A huntsman spider... anyone who knows me knows I have an irrational fear of all spiders. Now, a fear of a huntsman spider is definitely rational, so I must admit, I was quite distressed. But since I was in the middle of nowhere, with nobody within 20 miles who spoke English, I had to face my fear. I found a broom in the toilet area and chased the spider away at arms` (and broom) length. However, by the time the spider was gone it was pitch black... So my trip to the outside toilet before bed was almost as stressful! I was in bed that night by 8 pm, all wrapped up in a cocoon inside my mosquito net, and I soon became very proud of myself for being able to cope with the insects, spiders and darkness.
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The next day in Chiang Dao I hired a bike and rode the 10 km to the mountain where there was an immense cave and temple system. The cave was incredible and for some part of it I needed a guide and a lantern. My guide had a great sense of humour! Especially when I had to crawl through a very low tunnel, she found it hilarious that I was so tall, but she helped me all she could and after crawling through the right space we made it into a huge cavern.
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Outside the cave was a natural spring full of giant fish, some of the biggest koi and catfish I've ever seen!
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I then biked through the town, just exploring, watching fish in the river and people playing in inflated tyre inners.
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After some amazing food I went back to my accommodation to find the owner's daughter who spoke really good English. I arranged for her friend to drive me around Chiang Dao the following day to see some of the attractions, so I had an early night, without any spider dramas!

I met my chauffeur at 8 am and we went straight to Nam Dang national park and Sri Sangwan waterfall, then to a temple right on top of the mountain, as well as a few other stunning temples along the way. It was a lovely day!
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I absolutely loved Chiang Dao, however, the isolation was quite hard, and the town was very sleepy. So since I had kept in touch with Sean in Tha Ton, I caught the local bus there that afternoon.

In some ways I am glad of my isolated experience of this party of Thailand, but unfortunately, because nobody else was there, I was unable to do any treks to hill tribe villages, which was one of my main reasons for visiting!

Posted by Libbytes 06:28 Archived in Thailand Tagged cave chiang_dao hobby_hut_homestay Comments (0)

Hitch hiking in Tha Ton

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The bus from Chiang Dao to Tha Ton was... interesting! The bus was a local one full of Thais, and of brown paper wrapped parcels. The bus was the size of a standard coach, and was definitely going too fast for the winding roads! We would stop every now and again (or at least slow down enough) for the conductor to jump out to deliver the parcels! The kid sat across the isle from me also had a cockeral in a linen bag held right to his chest, which liked to complain with every turn!

I arrived safely in Tha Ton and checked in to Garden Riverview Guesthouse. That afternoon I walked into the town and instantly fell in love with it... the town was based on the river in a steep valley of jungle right on the Thai-Myanmar border. The was much more of an friendly feel and a buzz of activity compared to Chiang Dao, and the west bank of the river was lined with bamboo rafts and people relaxing and socialising. I found my own bamboo raft and chilled out with an ice coffee and ice cream!
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I met up with Sean who I'd met on the bus and his friend Charlie, who lived in Tha Ton, for food and drinks until late.

The next day, slightly hungover, I tried to climb up Tha Ton mountain (more of a hill) which had 9 tiers of temples or holy sites with one large temple at the top.

Tier 1
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Tier 2
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Tier 3
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Tier 4
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Tier 5
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At this point I decided that attempting to walk up a steep hill in 40 degree heat, to a deadline (wanted to walk up and back before 12) was impossible, so I flagged down a pick up truck with a family going to the top temple to pray... they loved that, as I can imagine picking up a funny looking farang was the highlight of their day!
Sneaky photo of the family as I sat with my back against the truck
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I missed a few tiers I think, but saw them in the truck, they looked like monks' living quarters. Once at the top the views out over the valley and the river were spectacular, and the holy sites and temple were interesting, more like art work then places of worship.
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Views
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I was pushed for time so I hitched a lift from a family straight away to take me down to the town, again I think I must've been the most excited thing all week as they kept turning around and waving to me through the window. A little less glamorous this one, as I had to sit in the back with all the bags and shopping!!
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I fell in love with Tha Ton straight away and could've easily stayed for a long time, but I met Sean and a French couple who were planning on leaving Tha Ton by slow boat to go to Chiang Rai that day, and considering the number of tourists in the town I didn't want to risk getting stranded there and overstaying my visa.

So I left at 1 pm on the slow boat to go to Chiang Rai. Only after buying lots of snacks for the journey!
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The boat ride was incredible, just the 4 of us on a narrow boat, with an expert driver who was able to negotiate the tight bends and shallow water. A lot of people were in the water, fishermen and women, children playing and adults chilling!
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The way they use and treat their rivers here is fascinating, life really does revolve around it. They wash in it, work in it, relax in it, play in it... and also throw all their rubbish in it... it's odd!

We arrived in Chiang Rai that day and checked into Baan Bua Homestay. The following day Sean and I hired a motorbike and went to Chiang Rai's white temple. Definitely more a work of art than a temple it had to be the most stunning temple I have seen so far.
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And the most beautiful toilet building ever...
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After a coffee and pineapple, and some crazy Chinese tourists wanting photos with me, we headed off further away from Chiang Rai to a waterfall.
The walk up to the waterfall was such hard work, we were both so exhausted and sweaty, but it was well worth it. I got in up to my knees to cool off!
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At least for me, the journey on the back of the scooter home was relaxing, driving through small villages and past rice paddies.
We got an early night that day ready to catch a 2-day slow boat from Chiang Khong into Laos!

Personally, I didn't really get a good feeling from Chiang Rai, I found it very seedy, with lots of prostitution and massage bars, but I would definitely return to Tha Ton!

NEXT STOP.... LAOS!!!!

Posted by Libbytes 04:20 Archived in Thailand Tagged chiang_rai tha_ton Comments (1)

The journey to Luang Prabang, Laos

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Sean and I got up early on Tuesday morning to catch a mini bus to Chiang Khong; possibly the scariest road journey so far, as our driver carelessly selected songs to play over the speakers on YouTube! In Chiang Khong we crossed the border into Laos, Huay Xai, where we boarded a large slow boat to take a 2-day boat to Luang Prabang.

The scenery on the boat was incredible the whole way, but the boat was a total tourist trap - however this did mean that we were able to meet lots of people and I made a lot of friends very quickly!
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After a long journey, which included 5 hours on the slow boat, we arrived in our stop over destination, Pak Beng. The pumpkin and buffalo curry that I had that night was probably the best Laos meal I had! But it arrived late since the town experiences power cuts frequently, and there were 2 that night!

The following day we had 8 hours on the slow boat, which was tiring, but luckily the scenery stayed beautiful.

Once in Luang Prabang, myself, Sean and some people we'd meet on the boat, headed to Khammany Inn, a very busy backpackers hostel. The night market of Luang Prabang was great, although the phrase 'same, same, but different' can be used to describe almost anything in Laos; menus, shops, tours, hostels... So a lot of the stalls sold similar things. Still, I did buy some generic 'traveller pants' hareem trousers in bright funky designed material! The food in Laos was odd... sort of Thai, but not as nice, not spicy, lots of baguettes and sandwiches (French influence) and at the night market there were a lot of buffet stalls! It was still tasty, but disappointing compared to Thai food.
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The next day the gang and I spent the day wandering around the town. We ate on the river front, but certainly paid for the views not the food!! We continued to the palace museum, former home of the Laos king, before climbing up Way Phu Si for some great views over the town and river.
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That evening we went drinking, but as there is an alcohol curfew in Laos at 11:30, all parties turn to the only place open after this, which in Luang Prabang was the bowling alley!! ... I won of course!
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Taking the piss out of the face I usually pull on photos!!
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The following day the gang headed to Kuang Si waterfall by tuk tuk, an in interesting journey to say the least... I only screamed a couple of times! The waterfall was the most beautiful so far, the water was an eerie green and the view from the top of the falls was well worth the 30 minute tough steep climb.
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The evening ended the same, food, drinks and bowling (which I won... again ;)

Our last day in Luang Prabang we spent exploring the local temple cave and chilling in the town and hostel. A slow boat over to the caves was beautiful and the caves were nice and cool although very small.
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Luang Prabang was very touristy... although you can see why, as it was a beautiful place, especially the waterfalls and river.

Posted by Libbytes 04:31 Archived in Laos Tagged waterfall luang_prabang Comments (0)

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